Posted on Apr 12, 2014

LITMUS ALL NATURAL INDIGO

Based in Japan’s Shonan region, LITMUS is an artisanal unit who while inheriting traditional indigo dyeing technique with dyes made from “ash liquid fermentation,” engage in creative practices that are unbound to conventional materials and concepts. The exhibition presented pieces produced through collaborations between LITMUS and LAILA TOKIO.
Ash liquid fermentation appropriated by LITMUS is a traditional dyeing method in which a “Sukumo” dye produced from indigo leaves is used to create natural indigo dye through a process of fermentation. As opposed to synthetic indigo dye that allow for bulk and stable dyeing at one time, this method is carried out entirely by hand through carefully responding to the respective conditions of the indigo dye. Furthermore, as it depends on natural factors like temperature and climate in its processes of oxidation and reduction, the blue tones of the indigo that is conceived differ respectively and never come out with the same finish despite having been dyed in the same way. In addition, pieces that have been dyed using indigo produced through ash liquid fermentation gradually “adapts,” richly transforming their appearance and feel in correspondence to the people who wear them.
On this occasion, LAILA TOKIO selected a series of unique vintage pieces. Such pieces were those that had also acquired their own individuality through being cherished over many years by their previous owners, and like the indigo blue tones created by LITMUS, are never the same. LITMUS carefully dyed these pieces one by one, transforming them into harboring a one and only sense of beauty within which different cultures integrate and coalesce.

湘南を拠点に、古来より伝わる伝統的な染色技法「灰汁（あく）発酵建て」による本藍染めの技法を受け継ぎ、素材や概念に捉われない創作活動を行う職人ユニットLITMUS（リトマス）とLAILA TOKIOによる共作エキシビジョン。
LITMUSが行う灰汁発酵建ては、藍の葉から生まれた“すくも”という染料を用い、発酵させながら藍液を創り出し染め付けるという昔ながらの染色技法。一度に大量かつ安定した染色が可能な合成インディゴによる染色と異なり、一点一点が藍液の状況を観察し、それと呼応させながらの手作業となり、また酸化や還元といった気候や気温などの自然作用に頼りながら行われるために、例え同じように染め付けても生まれてくる藍の青はそれぞれ異なり、どれ一つとして同じ仕上がりになることはありません。また、“馴染む”という言葉の通り灰汁発酵建てによる藍の青は、身に着ける人それぞれによって更に表情豊かな変化を遂げます。
この度LAILA TOKIOでは全て異なるヴィンテージピースをセレクト。それらもまた、これまでの持ち主に愛情を注がれ長い年月を過ごすことによって独自の個性を獲得した品々で、LITMUSの藍の青のようにどれ一つとして同じものはない品々。LITMUSはそれらを極めて丁寧に染め付けてくれ、異なる文化が混ざり合った唯一の美しさを秘める品々に仕上げてくれました。